Rabbits have evolved over thousands of years spending most of that time avoiding just about everything else that wants to kill them. It’s hardly surprising then that they are pretty good at spotting predators.
And that’s what we are – predators. From a rabbit’s perspective, we are no different from a fox, stoat or dog. As a result, they’ve become adept at spotting danger and running away when they do. I’ve yet to meet an airgun shooter capable of chasing a rabbit down on foot and even for the experts like foxes that do it for a living, the odds are stacked in favour of their prey.
In fact, let’s face it, stalking rabbits is possible, but very difficult. And if tasked with reducing a rabbit population on your permission, you’re doomed to fail if you rely on stalking tactics alone. Other predators know this, and I’ve often witnessed a fox laying down in long grass close to a warren waiting for a bunny to pop out. I’d go as far as to say that of every 20 rabbits I take, at least 17 are the result of ambush tactics.
Fortunately, assuming you have rabbits on your permission, ambushing them is not that difficult as long as you follow a few basic rules.
Below: Follow a few basic rules and an ambush will put more rabbits in your crosshairs
It goes without saying that unless you set up your ambush in the right place, it really doesn’t matter how good your bushcraft or marksmanship is. To find ‘the right place’, there’s no substitute for spending time on your permission observing what’s going on.
Doing so will not only indicate where populations of rabbits exist but will help you build an understanding of the times they feed. Of course, few of us can spend hours simply gazing at hedgerows, so look for signs such as fresh rabbit droppings, tunnel-like runs through long grass borders and active rabbit holes that are devoid of leaf litter and other debris.
Mapping where on your permission the rabbits are will also enable you to work out how best to plan your ambush. And taking a compass will help you make an approach regardless of the wind direction.
Below top: Observation is the key to setting up a successful rabbit ambush
Below bottom: Even if you don't actually see rabbits, there are other clues to lead you to their favourite places
It makes sense to take as many precautions as possible and approaching from downwind will always be preferable. However, in all honesty, I’ve rarely found it to be a critical requirement. More important is the need to ensure you set up your ambush downwind as rabbits will turn the caution dial up to max when they first emerge. Any whiff of you and they won’t come out.
Acting like an airgunning ninja isn’t wholly necessary either. In fact, I try to make my initial approach as nonchalant as possible, hoping to pass myself off from distance as a farm worker or dog walker as I’m convinced rabbits can read body language.
I’m not suggesting you stomp about, but I’d rather the rabbits spot me from a couple of hundred yards away and hop into the hedgerow just to be on the safe side than creep about and spook them for good a hundred yards out.
We all know how good a rabbit’s senses of smell and hearing are, but its real secret power is the ability to detect vibration. As a result, try to keep your footsteps as light as possible when closing in on your ambush spot. And once in position avoid banging your rifle or any other gear down on the ground.
Below: Set up downwind if you can, as the breeze will carry your scent away from wily rabbits
Rabbits can, and often do, emerge within as little as 15 or 20 minutes. But they can also take a lot longer, so it makes sense to be as comfortable as possible. In the summer laying on the long grass is a pleasant way to wait. But early morning and evening dew will soon test your patience.
You may want to take something waterproof to lie on – especially if you plan to ambush rabbits in the autumn and winter. There are plenty of good quality shooting mats commercially available, or you can make use of something suitable from home. Just make sure it won’t make a noise when you wriggle about.
For the same reasons, wearing the right clothes is equally important. Laying on the ground means you not only need to ensure they will be warm enough, but potentially waterproof and rustle-free as well.
And finally, especially during the summer, be aware of the risk of Lyme Disease from ticks and other biting insects. Bug spray is great but can whiff. Worn under your camo gear, bug suits are a great solution.
Below: Gear up with the right clothing and always check yourself ticks that could carry Lyme Disease
Camouflage clothing including gloves and a head net will help. Ghillie suits might result in a few odd looks from farm workers, but nothing will break up your outline better. However, even with these precautions, any movement increases the chance of you being spotted.
I use a sub-12ft/lb rifle for most of my ambushing, so I like to be within 25 to 30 metres from where I anticipate any rabbits emerging. Wind direction allowing, I aim to set up position directly in front of the hedgerow so I can target rabbits to the left and right of me.
Needless to say, make use of any available cover, even if it is only a tuft of grass. Even a rucksack will help. However, cover doesn’t always have to mean having to lie down with grass up your nose. I ambush lots of rabbits by sitting in or standing behind my truck.
Movement is your enemy so make sure you avoid being sky-lined by the topography. Getting low to the ground may not be the most comfortable position but reduces your outline and helps mitigate the effect of any movement. Back cover is invaluable, and I have tucked myself into the hedgerow and sat in ambush many times, usually when I’m anticipating a long wait when a bean bag seat or low chair makes life more comfortable.
Below bottom: Boost concealment by keeping your face and hands covered and keep your silhouette off the skyline if you can
Below top: A sitting ambush is an option if you find shooting prone uncomfortable - a set of Trigger Sticks will help to keep your aim steady
One of the many benefits of ambushing rabbits is that you can, to an extent, choose the range over which you expect to shoot. Shooting prone is the most stable position so it makes sense to fit a bipod and ensure it is adjusted for height and cant at the start of your session. If you plan shooting from any other position, a tripod or set of trigger sticks will help, especially if the grass is long enough to make using a bipod difficult.
Even with the best setup in the world, knowing your hold over and under adjustments for different distances is vital and time spent on the range working them out will pay dividends.
However, even an intimate knowledge of where to aim for different distances will do you no good unless you can confirm exactly how far away a rabbit is when it pops out of the undergrowth.
A decent rangefinder removes any guesswork but using one in the moment introduces movement that could give you away. For that reason, I always spend a few minutes at the start of an ambush pinging the distance to notable landmarks – a tree stump or even a clump of grass.
Few people would argue against stalking rabbits, or any wild game, being the ultimate test of an airgunner’s fieldcraft. However, if your shooting extends beyond challenging yourself, then ambushing tactics will always account for more rabbits.
I am responsible for controlling rabbit populations on a number of farms, estates and equestrian centres and for me, it’s a numbers game. The more rabbits I shoot, the better.
I love the challenge of sneaking up on a rabbit, but if that rabbit has to go, expect me to be laying in the middle of a field instead.
GUN: Walther Rotex RM8 UC
SCOPE: Hawke Vantage
MOUNTS: Sportsmatch scope mounts
JACKET: Jack Pyke Hunters Jacket
SHOOTING STICKS: Primos Trigger Sticks Gen3 Tall
Article first published 7th August 2025
